Nearly four hundred cemeteries, thousands of tombstones, and centuries of remembrance. Jewish identity has shaped the history of the Czech lands and was an integral part of our society until the tragedy of the Holocaust. The majority of Czech Jews did not survive the Second World War, and Jewish communities disbanded, with no one left to tend to the memory of their ancestors. The gradual restoration of cemeteries in the Czech Republic only became possible after the fall of communism. The Matana company, affiliated with the Jewish Community of Prague, focuses on documenting and restoring Jewish heritage, with the Institute of Art History of the CAS conducting research in this field.
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Some of the following images were originally published in a photo story in the 4/2024 issue of the CAS quarterly A / Magazine:
Written by: Leona Matušková, External Relations Division, CAO of the CAS Translated by: Tereza Novická, External Relations Division, CAO of the CAS Photo: Jana Plavec, External Relations Division, CAO of the CAS
The text and photos are released for use under a Creative Commons license.
We invite you to take a virtual walk through Prague’s Jewish cemeteries. We’ll be taking you on this journey with photographs taken during the colloquium of the European Jewish Cemeteries Initiative, the Institute of Art History of the CAS, and the Jewish Community of Prague, held in late September and early October 2024. Let the words of Leona Matušková and photos by Jana Plavec paint you a picture.
As our tour guides inform us at the outset, proper documentation is key to the care of Jewish cemeteries. Unfortunately, such records are lacking. Out of 370 sites across the Czech Republic, only about half have been partially documented.
Our first stop is the most famous and oldest preserved Jewish cemetery in Prague, the Old Jewish Cemetery, located in Josefov in the Old Town (Staré město). Burials took place here from the first half of the 15th century until 1787 and contains approximately 12,000 gravestones.
Walking through the Josefov cemetery, our guides point out fragments of tombstones embedded in the perimeter wall. These were transferred here from an older, now-defunct cemetery in the area now occupied by Vladislavova Street in the New Town quarter in the center of Prague.
We pass the resting place of many notable figures, such as Judah Loew ben Bezalel, also known as Rabbi Loew (d. 1609).
We are introduced to traditional Jewish symbolism. For instance, the lion motif is associated with the name Judah and, by extension, the Jewish people.
This lion symbol is visible on the tomb of Hendl Baševi (d. 1628), wife of businessman and Jewish Town mayor Jacob Baševi, who was ennobled by Emperor Rudolf II.
Another prevalent symbol is the image of blessing hands, denoting the graves of those believed to be descendants of the biblical priestly Kohanim lineage. By now, we have moved to another very old Prague Jewish cemetery, situated at the base of the Žižkov Television Tower (Prague 3).
We learn that burials here began in 1679, and it initially served as a plague cemetery. Over 38,000 people were laid to rest here in total.
Today, only about 3,000 gravestones and fragments remain here. The destruction of this significant Jewish heritage site occurred during the communist era in the 20th century.
Prague authorities at the time decided to demolish a large portion of the perimeter wall and destroy many graves. Three-quarters of the cemetery were converted into a public park (Mahler Gardens). The construction of the Žižkov Television Tower in the 1980s completed the devastation.
The cemetery today, now overshadowed by the television tower, is just a fraction of the original extensive grounds. Nevertheless, it is worth visiting. Pavel Veselý from the Jewish Community of Prague guided us through it.
Thanks to our guide, the photographer and I discovered fascinating details we would not have otherwise noticed. We learned that stonemasons crafted the tombstones from Slivenec marble, which contains remnants of fossilized creatures – crinoids, cephalopods, and fragments of trilobites.
Even at the old Žižkov cemetery, gradual restoration of the gravestones is ongoing. Since 2001, over 255 gravestones have been renovated. We even encountered a restorer in the middle of work.
A string tied around a tombstone is not a modern symbol but a practical tool marking stones designated for restoration.
Although burials no longer occur at the Žižkov cemetery, it has continued to undergo modern transformations. In September 2022, the Jewish Community of Prague unveiled the “Return of the Stones” monument here.
Artists Lucie and Jaroslav Róna created the striking monument out of 200 paving stones that had been used in the latter half of the 20th century to pave part of Wenceslas Square. These stones were originally made from tombstones from old Jewish (and Christian) cemeteries across Czechoslovakia.
Before moving on to the next stop of our Prague journey, we took a group photo of the colloquium participants.
Our next stop was the New Jewish Cemetery at Olšany. Let’s explore this active Jewish burial ground, which has been in use since 1890 and offers many fascinating sights.
We can admire, for example, tombstones designed by prominent architects and artists. Here we see the Elbogen family mausoleum, designed by Jan Kotěra.
An interesting feature here is the symbolic stone tomb from 2001, which houses the remains of people from the destroyed medieval cemetery on Vladislavova Street.
Many notable and famous individuals rest at the Olšany cemetery. Visitors here can find the graves of writer Ota Pavel, director Jiří Weiss, or the recently deceased singer Yvonne Přenosilová. The expansive grounds offer countless contemplative spots and paths for a stroll.
The most visited site is very likely the final resting place of Prague’s German-language writer Franz Kafka. Signposts direct visitors to his grave from the cemetery entrance.
Kafka’s grave is surrounded by hundreds of small stones inscribed with messages like “I love you, Franz.” Beneath some of them lie entire letters and declarations (kvitelech in Hebrew).
Arno Pařík was our knowledgeable guide to the Olšany cemetery. He is the co-author of books Old Bohemian and Moravian Jewish Cemeteries and Jewish Prague.
A particularly impressive spot is the large Neo-Renaissance ceremonial hall, built in 1894 based on designs by architects Bedřich Münzberger and Alfons Wertmüller. The photo captures the entrance hall of the building.
The view upward is stunning. The building fell into disrepair during the communist era, but the neglected ceremonial hall was eventually renovated and reopened in 1995.
Our three-day exploration of Prague’s Jewish cemeteries concludes somewhat unconventionally in Libeň. Near the Palmovka metro station used to be a Jewish cemetery dating back to the 16th century. In 1875, it was removed to make way for the construction of the Libeň–Lower Railway Station and later the approach to the Libeň Bridge.
The tombstones, including valuable Baroque and Classicist examples, now lie buried deep underground. Only part of the cemetery’s perimeter wall has survived. Today, the area is frequented by the unhoused, and dog walkers occasionally pass through. A signboard there highlights the site’s historical significance.
The former Jewish presence in Libeň is also commemorated by the former synagogue building at Palmovka. The edifice is in a state of disrepair, but the Krajinou přílivu civic association is trying to maintain it by hosting exhibitions and theater performances inside.
The interior is captivating. One can easily imagine how magnificent the synagogue could be if funds were found for its restoration.
“When striving to restore Jewish cemeteries, we should remember that cemeteries are not just the tombstones. The foundation is always the individual buried there,” emphasized the Chief Rabbi of the Czech Republic and former Chief Rabbi of Prague, Karol Sidon, at the colloquium dedicated to the care of Jewish heritage.
The primary mission of the CAS is to conduct research in a broad spectrum of natural, technical and social sciences as well as humanities. This research aims to advance progress of scientific knowledge at the international level, considering, however, the specific needs of the Czech society and the national culture.
President of the CAS
Prof. Eva Zažímalová has started her second term of office in May 2021. She is a respected scientist, and a Professor of Plant Anatomy and Physiology.
The text and photos are released for use under a Creative Commons license.
